A Look Back at Myanmar

Today is our last day in Myanmar, as tomorrow we’re flying with Air Asia to Bangkok. Myanmar has been yet another eye-opening journey through a country where people don’t have it easy. On the surface, it seems like folks are living well, judging by their smiles. But everywhere, there are restrictions for them just as there are for us. Crisis-stricken areas are cut off from the outside world. We did catch a glimpse of the devastation caused by Cyclone Nargis in May 2008. Today, we visited a glassblowing studio located in an area that hasn’t been cleaned up yet. The glassblowing studio was completely destroyed. But rebuilding won’t happen until the rainy season is over. Myanmar is home to many ethnic groups, which has made it difficult to unite the country and move it toward democracy. Aung San Suu Kyi’s father was the man who formed the Burmese National Army (BNA) and liberated the country from the British with the help of the Japanese in 1942. The Japanese didn’t treat the local population with respect either, so her father turned to the British for help in getting the Japanese out—though with the condition that power would fully transfer to the people of Myanmar within a year. After that, Suu Kyi’s father formed the democratic party, AFPFL, which garnered a large portion of the votes in 1947. However, he was assassinated shortly after. His party continued to hold power, but without much success. The country’s economy worsened, minorities were distrustful of the government, and the military, BNA, had to take over power in 1958—peacefully. They managed to restore law and order to the country. In the next election in 1960, AFPFL came to power again. This time, too, the party struggled to maintain peace and progress for the people. Once again, the military seized power—this time by force. The military had different ideas about how the country should be governed. Strict restrictions were placed on what goods were allowed in shops and what crafts were permitted. This led to significant unemployment. The 50 kyat and 100 kyat banknotes became worthless overnight. People who owned these notes suddenly had no money. The military became the legislative, executive, and judicial power in the country. However, there are people who manage just fine in the country despite the strict regime. The Chinese control all the heroin and opium trade here. Unfortunately, there will likely always be a demand for these goods. It’s dangerous to dig too deeply for the "truth" in Myanmar. We wanted to see Aung San Suu Kyi’s house, where she’s under house arrest. If we drive by in a taxi, our guesthouse would be questioned. They’ve asked us to avoid it! There’s a notorious prison in the city, Insein, where people’s rights have completely disappeared. The treatment of inmates can be compared to that of the S21 prison in Cambodia, where the Khmer Rouge did whatever they wanted to people. All in all, Myanmar is an incredibly affordable travel destination where you can easily stick to a budget of 150 kr per day. Stay in guesthouses: the standard is good for cheap prices, often just 10 USD for a double room. Eat local food: a meal costs only about 2000 kyat. Use local transport. It can be tough on your legs to sit for a long time in very little space, but it’s a cheap way to get around. There are also domestic flights, which might be preferable instead of spending 15 hours on a bus.