South Korea in September

After visiting the communist dictatorship of North Korea in April 2011, we traveled to South Korea in September of the same year to experience the differences between the two countries. What a contrast it was! Nowhere else in the world is the disparity so vast and heart-wrenching. Unlike North Korea, South Korea is an open and well-developed high-tech society where all recognized democratic rights are upheld. It is hard to imagine a reunification of such different countries. It is primarily the older generation of South Koreans who yearn for reunification, while the desire is significantly less among younger South Koreans, who have never experienced a united country. The older South Koreans believe that reunification could take decades and that the relationship between the two countries must first improve gradually. This means more open borders and trade, which will eventually lead to reunification. However, no South Korean wishes for a united country led by Kim Jong Il under any circumstances. The question also arises whether the average North Korean would desire this if given a choice. The situation is further complicated by the fact that South Korea is currently about 30 times wealthier than impoverished North Korea—a far greater difference than that between East and West Germany before the reunification in the early '90s. Every time we mentioned to a South Korean that we had been to North Korea, they seemed incredibly impressed and eager to learn more. We spent 15 days in the country, which we felt was a suitable amount of time to see the parts of the country we had chosen in advance. The tour begins in the capital, Seoul, and then takes us to the southern island of Jeju Do for a few days. Here, we hike in the national park, explore underground lava caves, dig our toes into therapeutic beach sand, and visit the charming neighboring island of U-do. With fond memories, we leave Jeju Do and fly to the bustling city of Busan, which we explore over the next few days as our base for a trekking trip with a homestay in Jirisan National Park. The journey concludes with a couple of days back in Seoul and a guided day trip to the contentious border between North and South Korea (DMZ). Despite South Korea being a high-tech society, traveling around the country is quite affordable. Food, transportation, and accommodation can be found at reasonable prices. For example, it’s easy to find meals at restaurants for around 35 DKK per person, modern motels for about 200 DKK per night, and day passes for the metro for around 17 DKK. Additionally, almost all national parks are completely free! However, expect a normal daily budget of around 500 DKK per person, as costs can add up. There’s no need to worry about hygiene, as it is at least on par with Danish standards. For instance, the conditions in restaurants and public restrooms are top-notch! Generally, South Koreans are not very proficient in English. Most older individuals do not speak English at all, and despite six years of mandatory English education in schools, young South Koreans often speak surprisingly poor English! One common explanation is that the teaching focuses more on writing than on speaking. It’s an odd approach, especially given the low level of English proficiency in such a modern society. Therefore, it can sometimes be a challenge to navigate the country and find your way. However, with a good attitude, a map, and some body language, it is still possible to get around safely. South Koreans are generally very friendly people. We often found ourselves at tourist attractions where, with basic English, we were offered free transportation. As a white European, we stood out significantly from the crowd. During our travels, there were not many white tourists, but many more Chinese, Japanese, and local tourists. It’s almost a mission in itself to find a young South Korean without the latest smartphone on the market, and there is wireless internet almost everywhere. It is said that South Korea is the most wireless society in the world. As for literature, I cannot recommend the Lonely Planet Korea (2009 edition) this time, as it is quite lacking in descriptions of attractions, transportation, accommodation, and dining options. We found ourselves relying on the internet almost daily to find additional information!