Wellness in Agua Calientes

Agua Calientes is the gateway for visitors to Machu Picchu. Everyone has to pass through this town—whether they’re day-trippers from Cusco or those who have hiked one trail or another up to Machu Picchu. You can only get there by train, and there are three options, all quite pricey. Of course, it’s cheaper for the locals to travel back and forth. The train from Poroy costs $41 each way, and they serve a little snack along the way. The journey takes about four hours. The bus ride from Poroy to Cusco is just 20 minutes. The train to Ollantaytambo costs $36 each way and takes about two hours. After that, you’ll need to take a bus to Cusco, which takes nearly two hours. There’s also a luxury train, The Hiram Bingham, which costs nearly $2000. This includes brunch, tea, entrance, and a guided tour at Machu Picchu. It also departs from Poroy. Our first impression of the town was: Oh no. The first thing you see is the backs of the town’s houses, which isn’t a pretty sight at all. But luckily, this very touristy town turns out to be a nice and cozy place upon closer inspection. There are no cars in the town, just heaps of hotels, restaurants, bars, and shops all hoping to cash in on the thousands of people who come every day to see Machu Picchu. It’s not cheap to buy souvenirs here, so save your money until you’re back in Cusco. You’ll get more bang for your buck there. The name "Aqua Calientes" means "hot water," and the town is indeed known for its hot springs. Many flock to the hot springs after hiking for four days on the Inca Trail. The entrance fee is 10 S per person. We were a bit disappointed when we saw the hot springs. It looked more like a public bathhouse. The locals were just washing themselves. It wasn’t a natural area where you could see where the hot water was coming from. There were small pools made, but the water was completely yellow. We hoped it was minerals that had colored the water as we eased ourselves into one of the pools. There was no fresh water flowing into the small basins, and you couldn’t see any water flowing out either. The yellow water just sat still in the little tubs. With so many tourists with sore calves after hiking countless kilometers, there are also plenty of massage offers. Most places stick to a rate of 50 S for an hour. In Cusco, it only costs 15 S. We kept looking and found a woman who was willing to negotiate. We ended up getting an hour-long massage for 20 S. On the other hand, drink prices are very reasonable. Happy hour is everywhere—all day long. You can get four drinks of your choice for just 20 S. Restaurants have jacked up their food prices, but if you ask for the Menu del Dia, it’s easy to enjoy three courses for only 15 S. When night falls and the lights come on, the town really becomes charming. You can easily spend a night here—it’s definitely worth it.