Biking to the Forbidden City and Beyond

Beijing is a flat, flat city with plenty of bike lanes, making it easy and convenient to get around on a bike. We rented a tandem, which also makes it easier to chat while cycling :) Renting the tandem for the whole day cost us 60 yuan. The rental guy didn’t speak a word of English, but thankfully we share the same numbers, so we ended up doing a lot of writing on paper. Our first stop was Jingshan Park, located just north of the Forbidden City. The entrance fee was 1.5 yuan. You could really feel we were getting close to a major tourist attraction, as one tour bus after another was parked along the side of the road—much to the frustration of the locals who couldn’t get by. Our handy tandem zigzagged through all the traffic chaos, allowing us to park right at the entrance. The locals use the park for tai chi, dancing with colorful flags, singing, and playing cards. Among them, all the tourists were heading toward the park’s highest point, Coal Hill, which is man-made. When the Forbidden City was built, there needed to be a place to dump all the earth from the moat. Today, Coal Hill offers the most stunning views of the city and the Forbidden City, which is just across the road. The Forbidden City is gigantic and built according to the five basic principles of Feng Shui: earth, fire, wood, water, and metal. Everything is constructed in harmony with one another. The attraction got its name because access was forbidden to ordinary people while the emperor lived there. You had to be invited to set foot inside. There were also three entrances depending on your status. Entrance costs 60 yuan. A guide costs about 90 yuan. I highly recommend getting a guide so you don’t just wander around aimlessly but actually learn the whole story. The element of earth is easy to find in the architecture since the buildings are situated on the ground. You first arrive at the most important buildings—the official building and the emperor’s office. They are also taller than the private quarters. Women rank lower than men, which is why the private buildings are shorter. Fire is hard to illustrate, so the color yellow is used as decoration on the buildings. In ancient times, the emperor was the only one allowed to wear yellow. Anyone else would be executed. The houses are built from various materials, including wood, with double roofs that served as insulation against the heat in summer and the cold in winter. The moat represents the element of water, which is also seen in large basins that function as fire extinguishers in case of a fire. Gold metal is used for decoration on the buildings. The doors are held together with beautifully decorated iron pieces. The title of emperor was passed down from father to son for 500 years—there were a total of 24 emperors. From the 1400s to the 1900s, an emperor lived in the Forbidden City. The emperor had a first wife, who was also the political wife—the face to the outside world. In addition, he had concubines to ensure the line of succession in case the first wife couldn’t have children or died. There were many intrigues among the concubines, as they knew that if they played their cards right, they could oust the first wife and take the prestigious title for themselves. Some even succeeded. One even became empress after the emperor died and she killed her own son. The concubines were carefully selected. Many aspired to become one. Once they lived in the Forbidden City, they were “prisoners” without rights. They weren’t allowed to leave the area. The higher the status of a concubine, the more freedom she had, which led to intense power struggles. Many servants were employed to attend to the emperor and his concubines. Eunuchs—castrated men—were used for this task. This way, the emperor ensured that no one had sexual relations with his lovers except for him. There were also kings who lived in the Forbidden City alongside the emperor. At that time, a king was “only” a trusted noble or statesman. A stone's throw south of the Forbidden City lies Tiananmen Gate, where Mao proclaimed the establishment of the People's Republic of China. Just a stone's throw further south is Tiananmen Square. Here, you’ll also find Mao’s mausoleum. After a long day of sightseeing, we hopped back on the bike to find some lunch. There are no restaurants near the world’s largest square. Normally, such an area would be used for cafes, benches for relaxation, and lots of beautiful flowers—but not in China. The square is almost deserted, adorned only with a few gigantic screens that inform about China. They show dancing girls, people harvesting, and many slogans. However, you never have to search long in this city for something to eat. There are small local eateries everywhere—if you have the courage. It looks like everything is edible. For the more cautious, I recommend trying Chinese specialties at a fast-food restaurant. Here, the most creative dishes are sorted out. It’s still much healthier to eat Chinese fast food than